Views: 0 Author: pamina Publish Time: 05-14-2024 Origin: pamina
Introduction
Oxford cloth, also known as Oxford weave, is typically made from a blend of polyester-cotton or cotton yarns woven together in a plain weave.
It is known for its easy care, quick-drying, soft hand feel, good moisture absorption, and comfortable wear.
The fabric resembles dyed fabrics in appearance. The name comes from the early 1900s when a group of independent-minded students at Oxford University chose this combed cotton fabric for their uniforms.
This fabric, with its two-tone effect, harmonious colors, good breathability, and natural comfort, was a response to the luxurious and extravagant fashion trends of the time.
It quickly became the exclusive material for Oxford University uniforms and subsequently gained popularity throughout Europe and America for a century, becoming known worldwide as Oxford weave.
The main varieties of Oxford fabric are:
Checked Oxford fabric, specifically used for making various types of bags.
Nylon Oxford fabric, mainly used for making flood prevention and rain protection items.
Full stretch Oxford fabric, primarily used for making bags.
Dobby Oxford fabric, primarily used for making various types of bags.
Weft-striped Oxford fabric, primarily used for making various types of bags.
How Are Oxford Cloth Specifications Named?
The specifications of Oxford cloth are typically determined based on the fineness of the raw materials used.
For example, 210D Oxford cloth should be made with 200D materials for both the warp and weft. So why isn't it called 200D Oxford cloth? This is because the international standard allows for a +/- 5% tolerance in the fineness of the raw materials. Generally, the designation is rounded up, hence it's called 210D. Similarly, 1680D bag fabric should be woven with two strands of 800D; otherwise, it cannot be called 1680D bag fabric. Additionally, the warp and weft density is crucial. Even for the same 210D, some fabrics are dense while others are sparse, due to different warp and weft densities. When purchasing Oxford cloth, you must specify the warp and weft density. The warp density is usually described by the number of reed dents per centimeter. For example, a 12-dent reed means 12 threads per centimeter. If it's a 12-dent reed with two threads per dent, it results in 24 threads per centimeter (12*2). The weft density is often described by the number of picks per centimeter, which can be measured using a weft density gauge. For example, 1200D 12-dent reed 7.5 picks means 12 threads of 1200D in the warp direction and 7.5 threads of 1200D in the weft direction. Internationally, the total number of threads per inch, such as 86T, 190T, or 210T, is commonly used, which refers to the sum of the warp and weft threads within a 1-inch square area.
Common Quality Issues in the Post-Processing of Oxford Cloth:
1. Formaldehyde Exceedance:
- Oxford cloth often requires stiff finishing, and the commonly used stiffening agent in the market is amino resin, which is polymerized with formaldehyde as the main raw material. This type of resin leaves a high amount of free formaldehyde on the fabric, easily exceeding limits. The solution is to use acrylic or vinyl acetate resins.
2. Heavy Metal Ion Exceedance:
- Heavy metal ions like Cu, Cr, Co, Ni, Zn, Hg, As, Pb, Cd are tested in export products, and exceeding these limits can have serious consequences. Although these ions are less common in additives, some additives can cause exceedances. For example, antimony trioxide emulsion used as a flame retardant contains mercury. When using mordant dyes in wool textiles, the mordants like potassium dichromate, sodium dichromate, or chromic acid can cause Cr(VI) to exceed limits.
3. Color Change Issues:
- Color change issues are common after post-processing. Attention must be paid to dye selection during dyeing. When sampling, the dyeing process must include the corresponding post-processing to determine if the selected dyes will change color under the influence of additives. Factors like dye sublimation during drying and baking, leading to lighter colors and yellowing at high temperatures, must also be considered.
4. APEO Exceedance:
- APEO (Alkylphenol Ethoxylates) is also strictly limited. This indicator is related to scouring agents, penetrants in pre-treatment, detergents, leveling agents in dyeing, and emulsifiers in softeners during post-processing. Despite the widespread use of TX and NP series surfactants as additive raw materials, the only way to prevent APEO exceedance is for printing and dyeing factories to use environmentally friendly additives and strictly prohibit the use of additives containing APEO and other toxic and harmful substances.